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Types of Concrete Mix and Their Uses


Concrete comes in many different forms, but can broadly be sorted into four categories: standard concrete, designated concrete, designed concrete, and proprietary concrete. There are a number of different grades within these categories.

The ‘best’ concrete to buy depends on the application you plan to use it for. Choosing the correct type is important because it ensures that your new build will be hard-wearing and stand the test of time.

Wright Minimix are one of the UK’s leading concrete specialists. We supply high-quality concrete solutions to the South West of England and South Wales, including ready-mixed concrete, liquid screed, and concrete pumps. In this guide, we cover everything you need to know about the different types of concrete, including their various strengths and applications.

Standardised Concrete


Standardised Prescribed Concretes (SPCs) are made with a prescribed quantity of materials issued by the British Standards body.

Relatively simple mixes, they are typically used for small scale jobs and mixed on site or obtained from a supplier. They have no strength guarantee or defined quality standards. There are five types:

Also known as wet lean mix concrete, this versatile mix is commonly used for a wide variety of non-structural applications.

Strength: Estimated at 7.5N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Drainage works
  • Backing
  • Haunching
  • Kerb bedding
  • Blinding
  • Cavity filling

A multipurpose mix used for unreinforced building and housing applications. When combined with a liquid screed finish, it is an excellent choice for house foundations and bases.

Strength: Estimated at 10N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Foundations for houses and extensions
  • Non-structural mass concrete
  • Unreinforced strip footings
  • Footings for fence posts
  • Small bases for patios
  • Drainage works
  • Blinding

Although ST3 is unsuitable as a wearing surface, it is frequently used for light domestic applications and bases. It can be used for internal floor slabs and house floors with no permanent finish flooring.

Strength: Estimated at 15N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Foundations for sheds, garages, greenhouses, and walls
  • Paving for patios
  • Trench filling
  • Blinding house floors

ST4 can be used as a wearing surface for light foot traffic. It is used for a range of domestic, industrial, and agricultural applications.

Strength: Estimated at 20N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Drain bedding
  • Benching to chambers
  • Unreinforced garage floors
  • Workshop and shed bases
  • Internal floor slabs

ST5 can be used in domestic, commercial, and agricultural projects, but only for light foot traffic applications.

Strength: Estimated at 25N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Foundations for columns and posts
  • Equipment storage spaces
  • Building ground floor slabs

Designated Concrete


Designated concretes are identified by their application, whether agricultural, industrial, or structural. They provide peace of mind that the chosen concrete will perform as needed, letting you skip the long process of specifying a designed concrete.

Providers of designated concrete must hold the appropriate level of product conformity certification, as approved by the BSI Standards Policy and Strategy Committee.

Designated concretes are sorted into General (GEN), Reinforced (RC), Foundation (FND), and Pavement (PAV) categories, each designed for a variety of applications.



GEN concrete is used for domestic and non-structural applications. It has a relatively low strength and durability level. The requirements specify a minimum quantity of cement to be included, but no water cement ratio.

Unless fully encased or covered,GEN concretes should only ever be used for internal applications.

GEN0 is a wet lean mix concrete often used in both commercial and housing projects.

Strength: Estimated at 7.5N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Domestic foundations
  • Cavity filling
  • Mass filling
  • Kerb bedding
  • Benching
  • Haunching

GEN1 is multifunctional concrete used for general building and housing applications.

Strength: Estimated at 10N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Foundations for conservatories, sheds, walls, and steps
  • Trench filling
  • Cavity filling
  • Mass filling
  • Blinding house floors
  • Kerbing
  • Drainage works
  • Haunching

GEN2 is perfect for domestic floors where no permanent finish will be installed, but carpeting or tiling will be.

Strength: Estimated at 15N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Trench fill foundations
  • Foundations for conservatories, sheds, and walls
  • Unreinforced strip footings
  • Unreinforced mass concrete fill
  • Paving for paths
  • Blinding

GEN3 can be used for light duty domestic foundations and applications. It can be used for domestic garage floors and to build unembedded internal floor slabs that will be covered by tiles, carpet, or laminate flooring.

Strength: Estimated at 20N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Foundations for houses, garages, and walls
  • Bases for driveways and sheds
  • Unreinforced bases and oversites for conservatories and greenhouses
  • Domestic garage floors (with no embedded metal)
  • Under paving for patios
  • Mass concrete fill
  • Trench fill foundations
  • Blinding

Designated Reinforced Concretes


Reinforced concretes are composites pre-stressed or embedded with steel. They are strengthened with added components to prevent cracking or corrosion.

Reinforced concretes have specified requirements for minimum cementitious content .and maximum water-concrete ratios. They are ideal for builds that will be exposed to highly demanding conditions.

RC25 concrete mixes can be used in parts of a building that require steel reinforcement.

Strength: Estimated at 25N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Lightly reinforced house or garage floors
  • Foundations, footings, and basement floors
  • Bases for sheds or outbuildings
  • Infill to insulated concrete formwork located above ground

This mix is suitable for mild exposure conditions, like pavements and driveways.

Strength: Estimated at 30N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Driveways, walkways, paths, stables, and patios
  • Internal areas for light foot and trolley traffic
  • Slabbing
  • Some reinforced foundations

RC28/35 is a strengthened concrete ideal for moderate exposure conditions.

Strength: Estimated at 35N/mm2 after 28 days


  • External slabbing, column bases, walls, and beams
  • Garages and workshops
  • Livestock and crop storage floors
  • Piling
  • Tank fill

RC32/40 is suitable for moderate to high exposure conditions.

Strength: Estimated at 40N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Agricultural tracks and roads
  • Floors and walls for slurry and manure storage
  • Cavity infill to reinforced masonry
  • Farmyards
  • Factory floors

RC35/45 is appropriate for high demanding exposure conditions.

Strength: Estimated at 45N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Toppings for floors in parlours and dairies
  • Floors and walls for silage or grain stores
  • Stable floors

RC40/50 is the hardiest of reinforced concretes, making it suitable for severe exposure conditions.

Strength: Estimated 50N/mm2 after 28 days


  • External yards
  • Heavy traffic areas
  • Stable floors
  • Toppings for floors in parlours and dairies
  • Floors and walls for silage or grain stores

Designated Paving Concrete


PAV1 and PAV2 concretes include freeze-thaw resistance and are intended for heavy-duty parking and drives. They are not suitable for power float finishes.

PAV1 mixes are frequently used for domestic pavement construction. They contain an additive that creates micro-sized air bubbles in the concrete, helping protect the surface from freeze-thaw cycles.

Strength: Estimated at 35N/mm2 on 28 days


  • Domestic pavements, parking, and carports (where no de-icing salts are used)
  • Reinforced and unreinforced bases for workshops and houses
  • Reinforced and unreinforced hard standings
  • Paved areas such as walkways and patios
  • External paving
  • House driveways

PAV2 is a heavy-duty concrete suitable for commercial and industrial use. It is resistant to frost and can be used with de-icing salts.

Strength: Estimated at 40N/mm2 after 28 days


  • Reinforced bases for commercial buildings and agricultural storage
  • Slabbing and paving with heavy vehicle and machinery traffic
  • External yards and roads subject to occasional de-icing salts
  • Heavy-duty outdoor driveways, pavements, and forecourts
  • Industrial external car parks
  • Mass concrete fills

Designated Foundation Concretes


As the name suggests, foundation concrete is used in foundations, specifically in those where the ground soil contains sulphates. Sulphates can cause normal concrete to soften, decay, or crack; foundation concrete is designed to withstand this deterioration.

FND2, FND3, and FND4 can be used in all types of un-reinforced foundations. Each is designed for a different soil type.

Strength: Estimated at 30N/mm2 after 28 days

Designed Concretes


As directed by European Standards, designed concretes are mixed to achieve a specific strength required for an application. Unlike standardised and designated concretes, they don’t specify the cement to water mix ratios.

Proprietary Concretes


Proprietary concretes are custom mixed by the producer for a specific application. They are used where high-performance or specific qualities are required. The producer will provide you with a performance guarantee.


Get a Quote From our Concrete Specialists 


Wright Minimix have been supplying premium concrete mixes to the South and Wales for over two decades. We can supply your project with ready-mix concrete of all types, as well as heavy-duty concrete pumps and equipment. No matter the size or scope of your project, you can rely on us for quality materials and a top-notch service.

Get a quote online or by calling us on 0117 958 2090. We’re happy to talk through your requirements and offer our recommendations on the best concrete type for your project.

We are the right people for you – let’s work together!

Contact us on 0117 958 2090 today to get a quote or to find out more.

How to Test for Concrete Slump
16th November 2022

A concrete slump test is a method of measuring the consistency of fresh concrete. It’s a simple and easy way to check the workability of multiple batches before they set.

Wright Minimix are industry-leading concrete specialists, supplying ready-mix concrete and liquid screed across the South West. In this post, we explain what a slump test is, why it’s necessary, and how to carry one out.

What is a concrete slump test?

A concrete slump test is a routine procedure for seeing how easily a batch of concrete will flow. It’s low cost, easy to carry out, and produces immediate results.

Why perform a concrete slump test?

Before laying concrete, it’s important to check all batches have the same consistency. This ensures a constant quality and strength throughout. A slump test reveals the water-cement ratio, letting you know whether more or less cement needs to be added to the mix.

Too much water will weaken a mix. If you require a higher workability, you must raise the amount of cement within the mix.

What is the method for carrying out a concrete slump test?

To carry out a concrete slump test, you’ll need a slump cone, a measuring stick, a steel rod, and - of course - the concrete itself. Follow the steps below to find out the slump result of your concrete:

  1. Place the slump cone on a flat surface and stand on the footholds either side.
  2. Pour a layer of concrete into the cone, and use the steel rod in a circular fashion to smooth and compact it around 25 times. Make sure to penetrate the previous layer by about an inch. Repeat this with another layer of concrete on top.
  3. Pour in one final layer and rod it 25 times. The rod should penetrate the second layer, but not go through it fully. If the concrete is compacted beneath the top of the mould, stop rodding and add more concrete, then continue.
  4. After pouring the layers, clear away any overflow from the top and base of the cone. Double check the concrete reaches the top level of the cone.
  5. Slowly lift the cone up, shaking it gently until it is free of the concrete. Place the cone upside down next to the concrete, which will soon start to slump.
  6. Lay the steel rod across the top of the upturned cone so it hangs over the concrete.
  7. Measure the distance from the rod to the top of the slump. The level of slump is measured to the nearest 1/4 of an inch. The recorded results are the slump of the concrete.

Talk to the South’s concrete specialists

Wright Minimix have been delivering premium concrete solutions for over two decades. Whether you’re in need of ready-mix concrete, concrete blocks, or a heavy-duty concrete pump, we’ll be there to provide it on time and on budget.

Get a quote online or by calling our friendly team on 0117 958 2090.

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The Complete Guide to Concrete Footings
07th September 2022

Whether a house, deck, or bridge, every structure needs a strong footing to stand on. 

Concrete footing lies at the very lowest point of a foundation. Responsible for supporting the weight of an entire building, the footing must be strong, durable, and sturdy enough to last years under heavy strain. 

Poorly built concrete footing risks cracking or sinking into the ground. In extreme cases, it can even cause the building to collapse altogether! 

For these reasons, laying out concrete footing correctly is a crucial part of the construction process. 

Wright Minimix are specialists in all things concrete. We have extensive knowledge about using concrete for a variety of applications, and have years of experience working on projects across the south west. 

In our guide to concrete footings, we cover everything you need to know about correctly laying a footing, from determining the right concrete mix to proper site preparation. 


What are Concrete Footings? 


Footings are the solid concrete at the very bottom of a structure. They distribute the weight of a building across an area, preventing it from sinking into the ground. 

Footings are usually the first thing you build when starting a new construction project. Because they need to support a significant amount of weight, footings must be made of very strong concrete. It should be at least 3500 psi (pounds per square inch). 

There are several different types of concrete footings: footing under a single column, footing under multiple columns, and wall footings. 

Concrete has high compressive strength, meaning it can withstand heavy loads without fracturing, but low tensile strength. This means too much weight can cause it to elongate. For this reason, the concrete mix is usually reinforced with horizontal and vertical rebars. 


What is the Best Concrete Mix for Footings? 


The mix you use is one of the biggest factors in determining how strong your concrete footing will be. 

Much of this revolves around the aggregate (the stone and sand used in the mix), as the aggregate is what gives concrete its strength. It makes up the bulk of the concrete and adds to its overall compressive strength. More stone means a stronger mix. 

However, using overly coarse or oversized aggregates can cause “honeycombing.” Honeycombing refers to the gaps in the concrete caused by large pieces of aggregate sitting against the rebar, creating an effect that visually resembles a honeycomb. Honeycombing can be fixed by adding finer aggregates and more concrete to the mix, and by mixing the concrete more thoroughly. 

For concrete footings, the best mix to use is: 

  • 1 part cement 
  • 2 parts sand 
  • 4 parts stone (aggregate by volume) 


What aggregate size should you use for concrete footings?

The aggregate should be around 1/2 – 1 inch in size. After 28 days of curing, this mix will yield a 3500 psi. 


Ready Mix Concrete for Concrete Footings

Although you can mix the concrete yourself, the most time and cost-effective way is to buy a ready mix. With ready-mix concrete, you can skip the laborious process of measuring and mixing and get straight to pouring. 

At Wright Minimix, we create ready-mix concrete to your exact specifications. Because each mix is custom made, there is little or no wastage. There is also no need to have a labourer mix the cement on site, nor do you need to make space for storage. 


How Do You Lay Concrete Footings? 


The exact method will depend on the structure’s size, shape, and location. It’s also important to note that laying a footing is a complex process that requires significant expertise. Make sure you’re working with experienced professionals who can carry out the process correctly. 

With that in mind, here is an overview of the general process: 


1. Prepare the Site 

Before you do anything, it’s important to analyse the condition of the soil on site. The size and dimension of your footing depends on the soil’s load bearing capacity. Soft or troublesome soil requires special care, as there is a high risk of the concrete sinking into it. 

You should also clear out grass, roots, and debris from the idea, and identify the layout and corners of your foundation so it can be structured correctly. 


2. Dig the Trench 

Once you’ve determined how wide and deep the trench should be, you can begin digging. 

The hole for your footings needs to be bigger than the foundation, so you and your workers have room to lay down the footings. There should be at least 2 feet on all sides. 

The perimeter hole should be at least 2 feet wide by 2 to 3 feet deep. Make sure to clear out any remaining dirt and plantation afterwards. 


3. Set the Rebar 

Rebar support beams prevent the concrete from cracking or crumbling. You should set your rebar in place, then attach the grade pins on top. Each grade pin should be about 2 feet apart from one another, and a foot away from the corners. 

Make sure that the rebar is an equal distance from the sides as it is from the base of your opening. 


4. Mix and Pour the Concrete 

If you’re using a ready mix, you can skip straight the pouring. Depending on the size and location of your site, a concrete pump may be your best option for this. 

Wright Minimix has a fleet of concrete pumps available, big and small. This includes our compact Minipump, ideal for hard-to-access sites, as well as the largest concrete pump in the UK

If you’re preparing the concrete yourself, make sure the ratio of cement, aggregate, and water is correctly measured out before mixing. 

Once the concrete is prepared, pour it into the trench. This must be done within thirty minutes of mixing. 

The final step is to protect your footing from moisture and damage with an industrial-quality, acrylic-based sealer. 


Trust Wright Minimix for Your Concreting Needs

Need a reputable concrete supplier for your project? No matter what kind of structure you’re working on, we have the exact type of ready-mix concrete you need. Get in touch to arrange concrete for your footing today!

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Bonded vs Unbonded Screed
01st September 2022

When it comes to any building, flooring is an essential part of its structure. This means it’s vital to ensure that your floors are sufficiently strong, durable, smooth and level. This can be achieved through screed flooring, but with all the different types available on the market today, you may be unsure as to what one best suits your building’s needs.

There are two main floor screed designs – bonded screed and unbonded screed. To give clarity, specialist concrete contractors Wright Minimix have developed this guide to explain what exactly screed is, the differences between bonded and unbonded screed along with the benefits and uses of each.

Read on to find out more, or contact us today to discuss a screed flooring quote.

What exactly is screed?

Screed is essentially a thin layer that is laid over concrete to create a smooth, sturdy and hardwearing subfloor. Created by mixing cement with graded aggregates and water, screed can be between 25mm and 100mm in thickness, and can be left as a standalone finish or covered with additional decoration (such as carpet or floorboards).

What is bonded screed? 

Bonded screed is laid onto a mechanically prepared substrate (or underlying layer) using a bonding agent or slurry.  The aim is to maximise the potential bond to the concrete substrate. The optimum thickness of bonded screed is between 25-40mm.

What is unbonded screed?

Unbonded screed, on the other hand is intentionally separated from the substrate by the use of a damp-proof membrane or polyethylene sheet. With unbonded screed, it’s crucial that the drying process isn’t rushed as if it dries too fast, the edges of the screed can warp. It’s recommended that unbonded screed thickness exceeds 50mm.

Will screed stick to concrete?

Technically no as screed is not directly applied to concrete. Screed is applied over a mechanically prepared substrate (if using bonded screed) or a membrane (if using unbonded screed) which is placed over the top of the concrete.

What is the difference between bonded and unbonded screed?

We explain the differences between bonded and unbonded screed and when you would use them below. 

When would you use bonded screed?

Typically, bonded screed is ideal for areas that will regularly endure heavy loads such as driveways and car parks.

What are the benefits of using bonded screed?

The advantages of using bonded screed include how:

Bonded screed is simpler to apply as it’s thinner than any other form of screed

As bonded screeds can be much thinner than any other form of screed, this makes the application much simpler as all that’s required is a slurry of cement and water or a bonding agent.

Reduces shrinkage

By applying bonded screed correctly, shrinkage will be reduced in the future due to additives contained in the bonding agent.

When would you use unbonded screed?

As it uses a damp proof membrane to protect against moisture, unbonded screed is best used in buildings where damp presents a serious problem (e.g. for underfloor heating).

What are the benefits of using unbonded screed?

Reasons for choosing unbonded screed include how:

Unbonded screed prevents settlement

Settlement is the term given to when a floor sinks due to large amounts of pressure. Settlement is a common problem with concrete floors, but as the damp-proof membrane separates the screed from the concrete, the risk of settlement is mitigated.

Unbonded screed reduces shrinkage cracking

Shrinkage cracking accounts for about 80% of screed cracking. By separating the screed from the concrete substrate, the risk of shrinkage is greatly reduced during the drying process.

Unbonded screed guards against damp

As already touched upon, thanks to the damp-proof membrane separating the screed from the concrete, a barrier is created to prevent damp rising from the substrate.

Which is better – bonded or unbonded screed?

We don’t believe one screed design is better than the other – it all depends on your project and how you intend to apply the screed; for projects that need to withstand heavy loads on a regular basis, we recommend opting for bonded screeds.

For projects that take place in areas that are prone to moisture and damp, we suggest choosing unbonded screed.

Whether you require bonded or unbonded screed, trust Wright Minimix to provide the right floor solution for your commercial or domestic needs.

Wright Minimix is a specialist concrete and floor screeding company

Wright Minimix specialise in supplying high quality liquid screed flooring, concrete blocks and ready mixed concrete to customers across the South West of England and South Wales. Our team of vastly experienced and skilled concrete contractors pride themselves on giving expert advice across our commercial and residential clients.

To find out how we can provide screed flooring for your property, or to learn more about our wide array of concrete services, don’t hesitate to call our friendly team today on 01179 582090 or alternatively feel free to leave a message on our contact webpage.

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The Complete Guide to Concrete Pumping
25th August 2022

Before you can start pouring concrete into your lay site, you need a way to get it there.

In this guide to concrete pumping, you’ll learn exactly how the pumping process works, and why it could be the best concrete transport solution for your business.

If your mix trucks are too large to get close to your lay site, delivering concrete can prove a problem. You could transport the concrete manually, but lugging around heavy cement-filled wheelbarrows is far from ideal – it’s slow and back-breaking work, with a high risk of spillage or injury.

That’s where concrete pumps come in. Concrete pumps streamline the process of transporting concrete, delivering it faster, easier, and more cleanly. They’re able to transport hundreds of yards of mix with ease, cutting down on wastage and speeding up the process massively.

At Wright Minimix, we have a wide range of concrete pumps for hire. These include the largest concrete pump in the UK, standing at 62 metres tall, and the boomless minipump, for delivery to especially difficult-to-access lay sites. If you’re looking for the right pump for your project, get in touch!

How Concrete Pumps Work

Concrete pumps use a simple, reliable mechanism for transporting concrete.

Two cylinders are placed next to one another. Inside each cylinder is a piston: one piston draws the concrete into the cylinder, while the other pushes the concrete out. A valve can be turned to determine which cylinder is open to the concrete hopper and which is open to the discharge pipes.

When concrete is pumped, a layer of water, sand, and cement keeps it lubricated as it moves through the pump line walls. The mix needs to have enough water to move easily through without causing a blockage.

If you’re looking for the right concrete mix for your pumping project, we can help. We’ll create a high-quality custom mix for your project that moves smoothly through pipes while still serving its ultimate purpose.

Types of Concrete Pump

There are two main types of concrete pump: boom pumps and boomless pumps.

Boom pumps use a long robotic arm to deliver ready-mix concrete and liquid screed quickly and accurately. Because of the sheer volume of concrete they’re capable of pumping, they’re often used on large construction sites.

As the name suggests, boomless pumps – also known as ground line pumps – lack this robotic arm. They instead rely on laying pipes from the vehicle to the lay site. Boomless pumps are useful for smaller sites that are difficult for mixing trucks to access.

Looking for more information? Check out our blog post on choosing between boom and line pumps.

If you’re unsure which pump will work best for your project, don’t worry. Whether you need a large concrete pump or a small concrete pump, we can show you exactly which pump will work best for your project.

How the Concrete Pumping Process Works

The specifics of how pumping works depends on the individual situation. However, there is a typical process most projects follow:

  1. The pump’s operator sets up the pump and prepares the grout
  2. The concrete mixer truck backs into and connects to the pump
  3. The operator grouts the line and begins pumping
  4. If using a boom pump, the concrete will be laid using the arm. If using a boomless pump, the pipeline must be rearranged during the pouring process
  5. Once the concrete has been fully dispensed, the mixer chutes will be cleaned on site
  6. Repeat for the other mixing trucks (if necessary)
  7. Once completed, the concrete left in the pump and pipeline will be cleaned. How long this takes depends on the length of the pipeline
  8. The boom (if present) is reverted back into its travel position and all equipment is packed away. The pump is then driven back to the depot

How to Prepare Your Site for Concrete Pumps

Pumps are excellent at accessing hard-to-reach areas, but they’re more effective when they’re placed as close to the site as possible. It’s important to make sure your site has plenty of room for them and the transport vehicles they arrive in.

If your site is too small or remote to accommodate them, you should plan ahead accordingly. Make sure you’re using a pump that is long enough to reach the site. If you’re using a concrete pumping service, warn them ahead of time so they can account for the obstacle.

Using Concrete Pumps Safely

Pumps are huge pieces of equipment that, if misused, can cause serious injury or death. It’s paramount you take the correct safety precautions when setting up and operating them.

Using Concrete Pump Equipment Safely:

  1. Always check for worn couplings or gaskets, as these may let air into the line or allow grout to escape. Wear on pipelines can be checked with a gauge designed to measure the thickness of steel pipe. Make sure pipe ends are compatible with one another, as joints can be dangerous if the ends and couplings don’t match.
  2. The pipeline must be properly tied down. Space support brackets every 10 or so feet to reduce stress on the coupling joints, and to transfer the torque to a column or beam.
  3. Make sure you’re using the right hose for your application. You should use a specially reinforced hose if you’re using a boom pump. Only place hoses designated as a discharge type at point of placement for discharge.
  4. Whenever possible, use water to clean the pipes once pumping has completed. Water is safer and more effective at cleaning than compressed air.

Concrete Pump Vehicle Placement:

  1. Before you extend the boom, make sure no obstructions are in the way. For example, power lines, trees, or scaffolding.
  2. Power lines in particular pose a big risk. The metal on pumping equipment conducts electricity easily, as does the water present in the concrete mix. Coming into contact with electrified equipment will likely be fatal. If power lines cannot be entirely avoided, you should have a spotter to keep an eye on the boom at all times.
  3. Park trucks a good distance away from slopes or sharp drop offs.
  4. Make sure the truck is properly stabilised for the type of surface it’s mounted on.

If you still have questions about concrete pumps, reach out to us! We’ve worked on hundreds of pumping projects, and can give you expert advice about choosing and operating the right pump for your project.

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